Moliceiro boats bobbing in Aveiro

PHOTO: RUI MORAS DESOUSA

Portugal is one of Europe's least-explored corners and still something of a hidden gem.

For nearly 50 years until 1974, this former colonial power languished behind an isolating dictatorship. Since being welcomed into the European Community in 1986, Portugal's affluence and profile has been rising steadily. Portugal is no longer dismissed by travellers as a mere slither of land to the west of Spain.

Portugal is the most affordable country in Western Europe and the sun-drenched Algarve region in the south is a year-round playground for golfers, retirees and package holidaymakers from Britain and northern Europe.

But visitors are increasingly venturing beyond the sandy southern coastline to discover the culturally rich cities of Lisbon and Porto, the world-class surf beaches, the myriad nature reserves and the architectural gems that encompass monasteries, castles and Roman ruins.

Portugal is 220km wide and 560km long, and from north to south there are huge variations in landscape and culture. The mountainous, rainier north is more conservative, Catholic, hardworking and traditional, while the dry south enjoys the sun, long sandy beaches, azure sea, colourful flowers and relaxed lifestyle typical of the Mediterranean.

While Portugal's well-known exports are olives and cork, many visitors are surprised to find the Portuguese countryside smothered with fast-growing Australian eucalyptus trees.

Meanwhile, cast out into the Atlantic, two distant archipelagos also come into Portugal's territory - the lush, volcanic Azores lies some 1,300km west of the mainland while subtropical Madeira is 600km from Morocco.

Survival guide

On a continent of appalling drivers, Portugal is up there with the worst of them. The speed at which people drive is astounding.

Another hazard is the mosaic-tiled footpaths that become rather slippery when wet. Many Portuguese men have a tendency to spit in public - another contributor to slippery sidewalks. In addition, solo female travellers who have had unfortunate experiences here might argue that the feminist revolution has yet to hit Portugal.

Portuguese is a Romance language spoken by 10 million Portuguese, more than 130 million Brazilians, five African nations, not to mention numerous pockets of Asia. However, contrary to popular belief, the Portuguese language does not sound similar to Spanish and its pronunciation is notoriously difficult. For the lowdown on Portuguese food, see the What to do in Portugal section.

Price of accommodation in touristy areas of Portugal is dependent on the season. High season is

Beware the slippery mosaic-tiled floors.

Picture: Jose Manuel

March to November in the Algarve and June to September elsewhere. Outside of high season you are likely to get some sensational deals, especially on classy hotels. Anything with a sea view is always in high demand. Accommodation in Portugal ranges from camping, hostels and guesthouses to quaint farmhouses, former monasteries and luxury hotels. At bus and train stations, you will often be approached by persistent people offering you a quarto (private room); these are often quite reasonably priced.

Portugal has international airports in Lisbon and Porto, while Faro is heavily serviced by charter flights. Portugal's main air carrier is TAP Air Portugal. Many travellers arrive in Portugal via Spain by bus or train. The bus network within Portugal is very reliable, while train travel is usually cheaper but slower.